The Streets of Istanbul

Perhaps more than anywhere else I’ve been, Istanbul preserves the history of East and West over the last 2,000 years but the warmth of its people grabs you first. Narrow cobbled streets burst with sweets, spices and carpets - every other store a café with someone inviting you to take a seat for tea, coffee and more - the city fills the senses.

We arrived early on a Saturday morning, checking in by 10am. After a coffee, we hit the streets. Guys walk beside you offering guidebooks, in any language, although they seem to know which one you need. Calls to Prayer contend with each other from mosques in every direction as salesmen stand outside their cafés, spice shops, or carpet stores imploring you to come inside – ‘you don’t have to buy anything, just take a look…’

We immediately felt welcome. Coming upon a bridal couple at a sidewalk café on our first evening walk and I asked if I could take their photo. The bride laughed: “Wait – this is not my husband,” and she ran into the restaurant to grab him. Then, she insisted we join them, as her friend took my camera. It made a lovely memory.

We accepted an offer to look in a carpet store from a young guy who’d been polite and helpful with directions. But, he simply passed off to his ‘cousin’ who served us tea and then laid out countless carpets before us: ‘Just tell me which one you like the most…’ Fortunately, Carol and I couldn’t agree on one. The tea was good though.

We were there for two weeks and I realized perhaps it was too long when all of the hustlers gradually stopped trying to sell and simply wished me a ‘Good morning, sir.’

There are carts selling food in all of the tourist areas: thin bagels filled with processed cheese (Laughing Cow/Dairylea) or Nutella; boiled corn-on-the-cob, finished off on the barbeque, or roasted chestnuts by the bag – all for $1(50p).

A guy in a fez that would guess your weight, if you could wade through the cats that surrounded him…

The streets of Istanbul are full of cats, dogs and Syrian refugees, and the cats and dogs are clearly doing better – they seem to be pets of the city; people put out food for them and they sleep where they want. Most of the refugees we saw were young families and there was some argument over whether they were genuine or not with many of the tourists we met. But, we had no doubt – they were clearly in need. On a bus tour we saw a young family with small children standing in the middle of busy highway traffic holding a sign that said “ACIZ (HELPLESS)” – I’m crying all over again just writing this…

It was in the evening though, near our hotel that they were most apparent, holding out their passports and a sign: ‘Syrian Refugees, please help’. Turkey is currently struggling to host more than a million Syrian refugees.

Sunday Fishing on Galata Bridge

 On our second day we walked across the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn, crammed from end to end with local fishermen. Along the bridge there are those that offer a game of chance. Standing with a soccer ball tucked under their arm and three packs of cigarettes, or three bottles of Coke on the ground at their feet. To win, you pay them and then try to knock all three over in one shot – more difficult than it looks…

A white-bearded old man sits behind two white rabbits on a table. He promises to tell your fortune for a fee – all you have to do is choose a rabbit. The old man pulls out a tray stuffed with ‘fortunes’ on pieces of paper and the rabbit immediately goes to one and sniffs it. He plucks it out and hands it to you. It’s your lucky day!

There are many that hope Istanbul will change their fortune.

Corn-On-The-Cob for sale